Jazz in Paris

Jazz is as much a part of Parisian culture as its art galleries and café life. Think Billie Holliday, Bud Powell, Thelonious Monk, and Miles Davis. They–and many others–were welcomed in Paris while America wasn’t quite so hospitable. Their legacy lives on.

Here are some jazz clubs that are a quick walk from the Hôtel de Ville. Click on the links to see who’s playing:

Le Baiser Salé, 58, rue des Lombards, 75001

Duc des Lombards, 42 rue des Lombards, 75001

La Peniche Le Marcounet, A great place–on a peniche (barge) on the Seine–to hear music in the summer. Located at the foot of the Pont Marie, 75004

Sunset Sunside Jazz Club, 60 rue des Lombards, 75001

Le 38 Riv’, 38, rue de Rivili, 75004

And for all the jazz going on throughout the city, visit Paris Jazz Club.

To get in the spirit, rewatch ‘Round Midnight, Bertrand Tavernier’s classic movie about jazz in 1950s Paris.

L’Atelier des Lumieres

I wasn’t sure if this was going to be super cool or hokey. At L’Atelier des Lumieres, moving images of an artist’s works are projected on the walls, floor, and ceiling of a former factory and set to music. An immersive experience. We saw the works of Gustav Klimt.

It was super cool and I recommend going. I don’t know if it will be going back regularly, but it’s definitely worth experiencing at least once.

Buy tickets in advance.

L’Atelier des Lumieres

38, Rue Saint Maur


Gallery Hopping in the Marais

Here are some great galleries to pop into while in Paris. Click on the names to see what shows are up.

Note that many (but not all) are closed on Sundays and Mondays.

Anne Barrault, 51 rue  des Archives (m*Rambuteau)

Art:Concept, 4, passage Sainte-Avoye (m*Rambuteau)

Art Jingle, 31 bis rue des Tournelles (m*St Paul, Bastille, Chemin Vert)

Christian Berst, 3 Passages des Gravilliers (m*Rambuteau, Arts et Metiers)

Galerie Bertheas, 25 rue des Tournelles (m*Chemin Vert, Bastille, St. Paul)

Daniel Templon, 30 rue Beaubourg (m*Rambuteau)

Fait et Cause, 58 rue Quincampoix (m*Chatelet-Les Halles)

Galerie Particuliere, 11 rue du Perche (m*Rambuteau, Filles du Calvaire)

Filles du Calvaire, 17 rue des Filles du Calvaire (m*Filles du Calvaire)

Marian Goodman, 79 rue du Temple (m*Rambuteau)

Nathalie Obadia, 3 rue du Cloître Saint-Merri & 18 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (m*HdV)

Perrotin, 76 rue de Turenne (m*Filles du Calvaire)

Suzanne Tarasieve, 7 rue du Pastourelle (m* Filles du Calvaire)

Thaddaeus Ropac, 7 rue Debelleyme (m* Saint-Sebastien Froissart)

Yvon Lambert, 108 rue Vieille du Temple (m*Filles du Calvaire)

Xippas, 108 rue Vieille du Temple (m*Filles du Calvaire)

Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5 rue de Fourcy (m*St. Paul, HdV, Pont Marie)

Hunting Museum, a Favorite!

I’d lived in Paris for years and years, then went back often for years and years and not once, in all those years, had I visited La Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature in the Marais. It took a raving friend who’d recently been to get me to go to this little jewel box of a museum. It’s the best!

Tapestries with hunting themes at the Musée de la Chasse.

Housed in a wonderful, old hôtel particulier (1655), the museum offers room after beautifully restored room filled with surprises. A taxidermy polar bear welcomes you (everyone takes a picture with him) and other stuffed animals await. There’s a room displaying a rifle collection (some of them are truly beautiful), a small video screen in a dark alcove of a white unicorn in the rain, and antiques chairs made with antlers. It’s eclectic and fabulous.

There are often super-interesting exhibitions by contemporary artists here. The most memorable show for me was when Sophie Calle took over the place. Click on this link for an article about it as well as some images.

A must-see!

Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature

62 rue des Archives